How to Make a Neopixel Blade?

Building your NeoPixel blade is a far more enlightening experience than purchasing one.

Additionally, after completing the process, you will realize that you might have unintentionally opened a multipurpose gate.

Any of your favorite Star Wars characters can be readily recreated as a personalized NeoPixel blade the next time!

Particularly the ones you can't find in a retail store or online.

Why don't you do the unthinkable instead of waiting for the NeoPixel blades to arrive?

Consider creating a blade that is both affordable and up to your standards. It sounds like a dream, doesn't it? You're now wondering, though, if the procedure had been that simple.

Don't be concerned about that. I've documented my experience to help you build a NeoPixel blade like a pro.

Step 1: Get the Neopixel Strips

Neopixel blade gets its name from the unique "Neopixel LEDs" that are included inside it.

Neopixel LEDs are sophisticated and reasonably priced, but they are also simpler to manage because each one may be treated separately.

The LEDs are inserted as strips for a lightsaber blade. A high-density 144 LED thin NeoPixel strip, about 1 meter (32 in.) long, is typically utilized. Thus, when the blade is lit, the LEDs in the strip create a smooth and continuous blade effect.

When grouped together, the LEDs can be controlled in various ways. For instance, you may replicate the striking effect, swinging, ignition mode, blade mode, ON/OFF effect, and more.

There are just enough details. Let's grab those renowned NeoPixel strips I've been raving about!

But first, be sure to get RGB LEDs that are WS2182 rather than RGBW. It is a typical error made by a lot of lightsaber novices.

Additionally, when making a purchase, you will discover that there are primarily two types of NeoPixel LED strips. One costly option is to purchase a single long LED strip. An alternative is to use two 50cm LED strips with a small space between them. I advise you to remember the length of your blade. Typically, a 70–90 cm blade is employed, necessitating a 24 or 32-inch strip. Both kinds are adaptable to the specified dimensions.

Which one you purchase will depend on your budget. But don't worry—you can adjust the 50cm strips to close the gap by tucking, nipping, and reattaching. Fortunately for us, this strip already has control and brightness comparable to the pricey Neopixel strip.

Whatever you decide, don't sacrifice the NeoPixel strips' quality.

Step 2: Decide the Grade of the Polycarbonate Tube

Given the wide range of options available, I advise you to go with polycarbonate. No one has yet to surpass polycarbonate tubing, despite my testing of a variety of materials, including PVC, acrylic, and other less expensive plastics.

The original polycarbonate is tinted blue. It is primarily a thermostable, robust 25.4 mm luminous material with countless benefits for lightsaber blades.

Another fantastic feature is the ability to select a polycarbonate blade according to durability. Glass is also available in various grades, ranging from mid-grade to high-grade.

You must use it prudently if you are trying to reduce the expense. The cost of Glass rises in tandem with its quality. The most substantial and most suitable material for dueling is high-density polycarbonate. If you want to engage in dueling, I suggest a sturdy blade with an exterior diameter of 25 mm and an interior diameter of 22 mm. You can, however, stretch it to 31mm/1.25 OD if you'd like.

Mid-grade, on the other hand, is ideal for hobbies like collecting, spinning, and displaying.

Future developments include precut polycarbonate tubes with a light diffuser and resin coating in a variety of lengths. You should not be concerned if you cannot obtain the coated ones. A light diffuser sheet available on Amazon can be used to DIY a precise polycarbonate blade.

You just have to cut the sheet to the blade's length and roll it inside the tube.

Step 3: Use Skinny Pixels Alternative

As we are gathering all of the supplies. The strips' dimensions must be measured in advance because they will be modified inside the blade. You don't want the NeoPixel LEDs to be destroyed before use and the blade to be overloaded.

Since we employ two strips on either side of the blade, a diffusing sheet may still easily accommodate the 1mm standard NeoPixel LED.

You do have another sophisticated choice, though.

As previously stated, clever skinny pixel strips can be used to save costs in place of a single-color RGB strip. They may flex easily in the blade and take up less room. You also don't have to tinker with wires anymore. They also have longer-lasting batteries. Finally, their uniform light diffusion reduces a lot of needless work by evenly illuminating the blade.

Step 4: Modify the Neopixel Strips

A few changes must be made before the NeoPixel strip is attached to the blade. The blade does not come with a pre-made NeoPixel strip ready to be inserted. Even though they are available, they constantly appear to be sold out. Thus, we shall make the necessary adjustments ourselves.

Use Coroplast

Neopixel strips are frequently made more robust by using coroplast, a corrugated plastic sheet. These strips of translucent plastic are available in various diameters. That is, of course, to align your NeoPixel strip with the coroplast's dimensions.

Typically, a 20 × 30 inch sheet measuring 4 mm by 4 mm is available for purchase. After that, the coroplast can be trimmed to fit the NeoPixel strip. In order for the NeoPixel strip to function, the coroplast serves as its backbone. It is fastened to the rear of the strips to make them more robust and facilitate NeoPixel strip insertion. In this manner, you may avoid the NeoPixel strip becoming distorted and making you even more frustrated.

Extra Protective Layers

Additionally, the soldered wires and weatherproof sheet are included in the packing for the NeoPixel strip. The other layers protect the one-pixel strip. The additional layers, however, only cause difficulty when the strip is being inserted into the blade. With the use of a box-cutting knife, the layers can be eliminated.

Forget about the NeoPixel's strip if you are concerned about its safety. The strips are already made to withstand heat and water. In addition, the polycarbonate tube will provide adequate security.

Soldering Wires

Last but not least, if the wires are already made to connect to the 5V board pins, they are directly related to NeoPixel strips. Otherwise, you would have to glue the wires to the pins individually. Three wires are connected to one end of a NeoPixel strip—not four, not two, not three. You must solder the wires using a soldering iron if they are not already connected to the pins. To further protect the region, apply a high-quality adhesive.

Replace the wires carefully with the board's pins. On the left is 5V (red), on the right is Ground (black), and in the center is Data-In (white).

Step 5: Test Neopixel Strip outside Blade

The best course of action is to test everything outside the blade first.

Put a Lipoid battery into the circuit and attach the pins to the board. Additionally, a button switch can be included. Turn the Ad fruit Neopixel strip on, check that all of the LEDs are lit up, and make sure the connections are tight.

Step 6: Prepare the Neopixel Strip

Let's ensure the NeoPixel strip functions flawlessly now. Using tape and the previously purchased coroplast, we can patch it before attaching it to the blade.

Transparent tape, double-sided tape, and coroplast are currently required. After cutting the NeoPixel strip, attach the coroplast strip to one side. Use double-sided tape to help connect the strip to the side of the polycarbonate blade, which will help with adhesion on one side. Another layer of coroplast should be attached to the other side of the NeoPixel strip. Apply clear tape to this strip. On top, the second coroplast layer serves as a diffusion layer for even illumination and offers stability.

At this point, the NeoPixel strip has coroplast layers on both sides. Use more clear tape to secure the layers. Don't apply transparent tape in a single, fluid motion. Slice off little strips of tape, then wrap them around the strip, leaving gaps between them.

Switch the strip on and take another look at the circuit. By moving it around a little, verify that the connection is strong and that the wrapped NeoPixel strip won't come loose from the blade.

Step 7: Insert the Neopixel LEDs in Blade

After the NeoPixel assembly is ready, carefully place it within the polycarbonate tube. In order to connect the wire to the hilt later, keep the end facing out!

Bring the NeoPixel strip to life. The light must be bright and consistent for the blade to be illuminated. Adding a polycarbonate layer could have a dimming effect, but it should be hardly perceptible.

Step 8: Seal the Deal

To prevent them from falling out, we must fasten the NeoPixel strip to the blade. We can attach the strip to the blade using hot glue, transparent tape, or a thin coating of silicone.

Now, insert the blade into the emitter's opening. The polycarbonate blade and hilt will be connected with the aid of the emitter. If necessary, use a small amount of force to secure the blade.

The circuit should dangle from the other side of the blade, which should be fastened to the emitter. Later, the pins and circuit will be fitted into the hilt. Find out more about the lightsaber's overall construction here.

Switch on the circuit and admire your work with pride. You can check your pleasing job by waving around the blade.

Tip!

The use of two 1mm individual blades on either side of the blade dissipates heat more effectively than the thin NeoPixel blades. You must use caution. The energy supplied to the NeoPixel blades also affects heat dissipation. It easily melts the blade. The concept is that in order to preserve both our hands and the blades, the heat dissipation must be kept below 40%. Therefore, make sure to check the Lipoid battery's output first.

Ultimately, I must admit that this was just the start. After completing the procedure, you can construct several blades using various NeoPixel LED strips with variable lengths and densities. Experiment and see what other possibilities and modifications you can think of.

Please get in touch with us again to share your experience!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

How do you make a Neopixel lightsaber?

In contrast, the NeoPixel lightsaber is primarily composed of a hilt and a NeoPixel blade. The building involves many different factors, but in the middle of it, all are NeoPixel LEDs. Visit this link to learn more about the construction.

What is inside a Neopixel blade?

In conclusion, the NeoPixel blade consists of the NeoPixel strip, sticky foaming sheet, tape, diffusion layer, and more. The blade is illuminated by Ad fruit NeoPixel LEDs, which are the primary component that cannot be ignored.

How many pixels are in a NeoPixel blade?

The length of the NeoPixel blade can affect the pixels. Nonetheless, a tiny NeoPixel strip from Ad fruit (1 meter, 144 pixels) is typically attached to a thick 1-inch OD polycarbonate tube.

Can you fight with a NeoPixel blade?

The NeoPixel blade's longevity will depend on its construction and quality. Polycarbonate has various glass grades. Superior-quality material outlasts its rivals and is best suited for battling.

Do Neopixel lightsaber blades break?

Neopixel blades have a limited amount of pressure tolerance before breaking. You run the risk of quickly damaging the pricey NeoPixel lightsaber blades when engaging in heavy and furious battling.

Are NeoPixel blades heavy?

The maximum weight of a heavy-grade NeoPixel blade is 190g for 7/8" and 300g for 1". Twelve inches is equivalent to about 30 cm. Despite their excellent durability, not all blades are appropriate for fighting.

Are NeoPixel blades removable?

Neopixel blades are simple to remove and replace. Previous NeoPixel blades can be replaced with various types. With the advancement of NeoPixel technology, NeoPixel blades for in-hilt LED sources are now available.